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Nevada & California: Distant Memories of a Cycling Tour Completed

Here’s the final blog post from our cross-country cycling trip. The 3,800+ miles that we cycled only required 80 riding days, but we managed to stretch it out into a five-month journey.

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After riding out of St. George, UT, we passed through the northwest corner of Arizona on our way to Nevada. The most direct route would have been to cycle on the interstate, but a more relaxing and legal option is to take a northwestern route through the Shivwits Indian Reservation.

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After reaching the crest of the climb on Old Highway 91 out of St. George, we were treated to a 17-mile descent.

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The long descent also carried us through the northwest corner of Arizona. It was a short stay, though. After only about two or three hours of pedaling we crossed the border into Nevada.

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Here’s my odometer clocking the 3,000th mile of the trip. We didn’t know it at the time, but there were just 821 miles (1,330km) between us and the end of the ride…

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We rolled into Mesquite, NV at dusk, and low on water.  We struck up a conversation with a local, Alfred, who offered to fill our water bottles.  One thing led to another, and he wound up letting us camp out on his patio, too. Alfred and his wife were another example of the kind of quality folks we encountered in the western states.

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A desert scene west of Mesquite, NV

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A desert scene west of Mesquite, NV

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The road out of Mesquite was pretty mellow. Most of the traffic gravitates toward I-70, on the other side of the valley. Unfortunately, we were eventually forced to ride on I-70.  I suspect there was a minor, unpaved alternative route that we missed.

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Apparently we weren’t the smallest and most vulnerable critters on the road. This horny toad lizard was about the size of a dime.

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We discovered this lousy stencil when we pulled off the main road for a little break under an overpass.

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On our second night in Vegas we linked up with Eyna’s friend from the Philippines, Koji. He was kind enough to drive us around downtown and show us some of the sights.

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A chocolate fountain.

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An artisanal glass ceiling in a casino.

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Boom.

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Eyna and I don’t drink, gamble, or dance, but we have a deep appreciation for sweets.

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Our time in Vegas coincided with the sprouting of a new branch on the Madrid family tree.

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After an extended stay in Vegas with family and friends, we pedaled 65 miles to the border town Pahrump, NV. The following morning we rode into the 13th and final state of our trip.

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Our first night in California was spent on public land just outside of Death Valley.

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The weather was perfect. If we were passing through in the summer, though, we would have been confronted by temperatures in excess of 120 degrees.

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A perfect, secluded site.

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A gentile 500 foot climb out of Shoshone, CA put us at Ibex pass.

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A resident of Ibex Pass. This guy was easily the size of my hand.

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A tarantula with 8.5 legs?

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In Yermo, we met a waitress who was from Rockville, MD.

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Notice the warning message on the top right side of this bulletin board in a cafe in Boron, CA. A bit disconcerting, isn’t it? There were quite a few towns in the Mojave desert that had been polluted by toxic spills, dumping, or leakage of industrial chemicals.

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I had heard such great things about California, but I developed a different impression during our ride. The inland area was post-apocolyptic, and the coast was crowded and commercialized. It was also the only state where we experienced unprovoked hostility from drivers, who beeped at us and even tried to run us off the road in a few cases.

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Here’s a vista of an abandoned shop on polluted scrubland. This is a pretty typical scene for the Mojave region.

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There were a few stretches where we counted literally dozens of syringes along the side of the road in a span of just a few miles.

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The good news is that firemen are friendly wherever you go. The guys at the New Cuyama firehouse allowed us to camp on their lawn and use their shower. They’re a pretty entertaining bunch, too.

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Here’s our campsite on the lawn of the New Cuyama firehouse.

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Mike seemed to do most of the cooking and cleaning around the firehouse…

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Here we are, ready to roll out of New Cuyama. Just a few more days to the coast…

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The scenery was more interesting in the hills that flank the coast than in the Mojave desert.

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It was along this stretch of road that we met a grizzled old cyclist that had ridden down from the Pacific northwest. He planned to ride to San Diego and then continue on to South America. Before we parted ways he told us, “Don’t stop riding. You don’t have any excuse. I’m 76, and I’m still going.”

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OUR FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE OCEAN! To be honest, it was a bit anticlimactic. I imagined cresting a ridge and having the clouds part to reveal a sweeping view of the Pacific. I never imagined we’d have to peer under a railroad bridge at a hazy sliver of sea.

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That’s a little better. I believe this is near Santa Barbara.

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A moment almost 4,000-miles in the making.

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The first Filipino to cycle across the United States?

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Aaaaaaand we’re STILL married!!!

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Look at my beautiful Irish tan! You can’t get that kind of color without spending four straight months in the beating sun.

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The black object in the water is a sea lion.

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Pelicans.

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We arrived at Eyna’s aunt, uncle, and cousin’s house on Thanksgiving day. Here we are the day after our arrival…

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In LA, we clogged Eyna’s family’s apartment with bikes, panniers, camping equipment, and all manner of pads, tablets, laptops, netbooks, smart phones, etc. Then we made an even bigger mess by tearing everything apart and packing it into boxes to ship home. Many thanks to Tito Jun, Tita Myrna, and Migz for letting us occupy their living space for a few days. After everything was packed we sent three large boxes stuffed full of bikes, wheels, camping kit, etc. The cost was outrageous. I spent more shipping our bikes home than I did on our one-way plane tickets back to DC.  I would recommend riding a bike with a frame that can be broken down, like the Surly Trucker Delux or the Ritchy Breakaway Cross.  The latter comes highly recommended for touring from two very experienced international cycle tourists in Moab, Barb and John.

Statistics:

October 16: St. George, UT to Mesquite, NV, 52.54 miles in 5 hours and 35 minutes

October 17: Mesquite, NV to Moapa, NV, 33.92 miles in 3 hours and 36 minutes

October 18: Moapa, NV to North Las Vegas, NV, 56.95 miles in 6 hours and 3 minutes

October 19: North Las Vegas, NV to Las Vegas, NV, 23.41 miles in 2 hours and 29 minutes

October 20: Las Vegas, NV to Henderson, NV, 19.62 miles in 2 hours and 5 minutes

November 9: Henderson, NV to Pahrump, NV, 62.17 miles in 6 hours and 36 minutes

November 10: Pahrump, NV to Shoshone, CA, 27.23 miles in 2 hours and 54 minutes

November 11: Shoshone, CA to Baker, CA, 56.16 miles in 5 hours and 58 minutes

November 12: Baker, CA to Yermo, CA, 51.44 miles in 5 hours and 28 minutes

November 13: Yermo, CA to Barstow, CA, 15.18 miles in 1 hour and 26 minutes

November 18: Barstow, CA to Boron, CA, 39.47 miles in 4 hours and 12 minutes

November 19: Boron, CA to Tehachapi, CA, 52.37 miles in 5 hours and 34 minutes

November 20: Tehachapi, CA to Bakersfield, CA, 53.62 miles in 5 hours and 42 minutes

November 22: Bakersfield, CA to Maricopa, CA, 43.89 miles in 4 hours and 40 minutes

November 23: Maricopa, CA to New Cuyama, CA, 23.95 miles in 2 hours and 33 minutes

November 24: New Cuyama, CA to Santa Maria, CA, 54.48 miles in 5 hours and 48 minutes

November 25: Santa Maria, CA to Buellton, CA, 33.25 miles in 3 hours and 32 minutes

November 26: Buellton, CA to Carpinteria, CA, 54.81 miles in 5 hours and 49 minutes

November 27: Carpinteria, CA to Malibu, CA, 57.59 miles in 6 hours and 7 minutes

November 28: Malibu, CA to Carson, CA, 41.09 miles in 4 hours and 22 minutes

Total Miles: 853.14 miles

 

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Across Kansas…

After crossing into Kansas, Eyna and I lingered for an extra day on the outskirts of Kansas City before riding southwest to the centrally located Flint Hills, and then almost due west across the archetypal Kansas plains.

During the course of our ride from Maryland through Missouri, Eyna and I have heard numerous stories about cross-country cyclists who had aborted their journeys on the plains of western Kansas.  Incessant headwinds, hundreds of shadeless miles in baking heat, and the sheer boredom of riding in a flat, barren landscape were too much for them, they say.  Eyna and I were both a little incredulous that any cyclist that had already been tested and vetted by the Rocky Mountains to the west or the Appalachian hills to the east would not be able to overcome the worst that the Sunflower State could dish out.  How bad could it possibly be?

As it turns out, cycling across Kansas is not without its hurdles.  Yes, there were a few occasions when we found ourselves pedaling through rolling, tall grass prairie stretching to the horizon or acres of nodding sunflowers, but for every peaceful hour there were four cruel hours of headwinds and scorching sun.

But in retrospect, it wasn’t that bad, and I couldn’t help but think about how easily we adapted to the challenges that we faced in Kansas as we slowly ground our way up our first grueling climb in the front range of the Rockies outside Pueblo, CO.  It’s hard to understand how anyone who had invested so much time and effort struggling through the mountains could submit to the plains.

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Our first stop after crossing the Missouri state line was the home of two very experienced cycle tourists, Greg and Karen. Here’s Eyna chowing down on some of their delicious tabouli.

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Greg and Karen are both experienced bicycle travelers and deft mechanics. While I trued Eyna’s wheel, Greg plucked a few bits of debris from her tire, and Karen patched her tube and then cleaned her drivetrain. I don’t recall where Eyna was while the three of us worked on her bike…

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Somebody wants attention…

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Riding through the mean streets of Oletha, KS on our way to our next Warm Showers host, Gregg II. As you can see, Gregg lives in a pretty tough hood…

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Eyna with the happy family…

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Contemplating the miles ahead…

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Gregg’s new pooch: a “Golden Doodle” (i.e. a Golden Retriever and Poodle mix)

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Sleep by day, howl by night…

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Barnyard scenery on the road to Emporia, KS.

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Our route was blocked by construction work on a bridge outside Ottawa, KS. A friendly local stopped and suggested a dirt road detour around the construction.

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Dirt rollers on a detour around a closed bridge.

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This was one of the occasions when we were glad we were running 1.75″ tires. Riding slick, skinny tires on dirt and gravel would have been unnerving.

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Our campsite behind a fire station in Ottawa, KS.

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Somebody needs her coffee…

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Wild Sunflowers.

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Wild Sunflowers.

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Wild Sunflowers.

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Roadside scenery east of Emporia, KS.

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In Emporia, KS we were hosted by Ben and Jessie. Ben is a very experienced cycle tourist, having ridden a recumbent some 7,000 miles in a 10-month circumnavigation on the southern and midwestern states. He’s also full of info about composting, agriculture, HTML, homemade wood stoves, and Japanese sweets.

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Dog #1

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Dog #2

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Sprawling…

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Ben pulled out the old cycling atlas and helped us map out a route across western Kansas.

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Emporia etc.

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In Hillsboro, KS we stayed with Del, who teaches at the local college. As a former racer, bike mechanic, professional photographer, and international traveler, Del is a great source of info for anyone pedaling through Hillsboro. Here he is receiving the goods from his pastry dealer.

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Hillsboro is home to a surprisingly good bakery.

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Eyna dissecting a cinnamon bun…

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The Hillsboro Bakery

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Day old donuts: $0.30

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Strategic Pastry Reserves

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Hilarious.

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In many parts of Kansas the road network is a simple 1-mile square grid. The grid system made navigating around a busy stretch of road west of Hillsboro pretty straightforward. Here’s Eyna on a 10-mile dirt road detour…

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Nice, smooth, well-maintained gravel.

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As we rode west, the environment became dryer and the endless fields of corn and soybeans gave way to sorghum.

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Sorghum apparently requires less water than corn or soybeans.

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It’s primarily used as animal feed, according to one local we spoke with.

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Gravel and Sorghum

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The Continental Travel Contact Tires (1.75 x 26″, wire bead) on my bike have over 3,000 miles on them. My rear tire is usually obscured by my rear fender, but when I laid my bike down to take photo on a lonely stretch of gravel road I noticed that it’s beginning to show some signs of wear. The rear tire is the drive tire (i.e. it propels the bike), so it wears more quickly than the front tire. After switching the front and rear tires, I’m confident that they’ll make it to the coast.

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Roadside Scenery

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Moo.

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There wasn’t much wildlife in western Kansas. This was one of the highlights: a dead snake.

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We fell into a routine once we hit the sparsely populated and mostly-flat western region. We’d wake up and ride…

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And camp…

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And ride…

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And camp…

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And ride…

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And camp…

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And ride…

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And camp…

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Aaaaaaaaand coffee…

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And ride…

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And camp….

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And…thank you very much Kansas!

Statistics:

August 30: Lee’s Summit, MO to Lenexa, KS, 26.16 miles in 2 hours and 43 minutes

August 31: Lenexa, KS to Olathe, KS, 12.25 miles in 1 hour and 16 minutes

September 1: Olathe, KS to Ottawa, KS, 52.83 miles in 5 hours and 23 minutes

September 2: Ottawa, KS to Emporia, KS, 64.34 miles in 6 hours and 18 minutes

September 3: Emporia, KS to Hillsboro, KS, 61.02 miles in 5 hours and 46 minutes

September 4: Hillsboro, KS to Lyons, KS, 61.54 miles in 6 hours and 30 minutes

September 5: Lyons, KS to Rush Center, KS, 63.48 miles in 5 hours and 59 minutes

September 6: Rush Center, KS to Ness City, KS, 33.51 miles in 4 hours 1 minute

September 7: Ness City, KS to Scott City, KS, 57.08 miles in 6 hours and 17 minutes

September 8: Scott City, KS to Tribune, KS, 49.94 miles in 5 hours and 24 minutes

Total miles: 482.15 miles

 
3 Comments

Posted by on September 8, 2013 in g. Kansas: Welcoming & Wind Swept, USA

 

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