After crossing into Kansas, Eyna and I lingered for an extra day on the outskirts of Kansas City before riding southwest to the centrally located Flint Hills, and then almost due west across the archetypal Kansas plains.
During the course of our ride from Maryland through Missouri, Eyna and I have heard numerous stories about cross-country cyclists who had aborted their journeys on the plains of western Kansas. Incessant headwinds, hundreds of shadeless miles in baking heat, and the sheer boredom of riding in a flat, barren landscape were too much for them, they say. Eyna and I were both a little incredulous that any cyclist that had already been tested and vetted by the Rocky Mountains to the west or the Appalachian hills to the east would not be able to overcome the worst that the Sunflower State could dish out. How bad could it possibly be?
As it turns out, cycling across Kansas is not without its hurdles. Yes, there were a few occasions when we found ourselves pedaling through rolling, tall grass prairie stretching to the horizon or acres of nodding sunflowers, but for every peaceful hour there were four cruel hours of headwinds and scorching sun.
But in retrospect, it wasn’t that bad, and I couldn’t help but think about how easily we adapted to the challenges that we faced in Kansas as we slowly ground our way up our first grueling climb in the front range of the Rockies outside Pueblo, CO. It’s hard to understand how anyone who had invested so much time and effort struggling through the mountains could submit to the plains.
Our first stop after crossing the Missouri state line was the home of two very experienced cycle tourists, Greg and Karen. Here’s Eyna chowing down on some of their delicious tabouli.
Greg and Karen are both experienced bicycle travelers and deft mechanics. While I trued Eyna’s wheel, Greg plucked a few bits of debris from her tire, and Karen patched her tube and then cleaned her drivetrain. I don’t recall where Eyna was while the three of us worked on her bike…
Somebody wants attention…
Riding through the mean streets of Oletha, KS on our way to our next Warm Showers host, Gregg II. As you can see, Gregg lives in a pretty tough hood…
Eyna with the happy family…
Contemplating the miles ahead…
Gregg’s new pooch: a “Golden Doodle” (i.e. a Golden Retriever and Poodle mix)
Sleep by day, howl by night…
Barnyard scenery on the road to Emporia, KS.
Our route was blocked by construction work on a bridge outside Ottawa, KS. A friendly local stopped and suggested a dirt road detour around the construction.
Dirt rollers on a detour around a closed bridge.
This was one of the occasions when we were glad we were running 1.75″ tires. Riding slick, skinny tires on dirt and gravel would have been unnerving.
Our campsite behind a fire station in Ottawa, KS.
Somebody needs her coffee…
Wild Sunflowers.
Wild Sunflowers.
Wild Sunflowers.
Roadside scenery east of Emporia, KS.
In Emporia, KS we were hosted by Ben and Jessie. Ben is a very experienced cycle tourist, having ridden a recumbent some 7,000 miles in a 10-month circumnavigation on the southern and midwestern states. He’s also full of info about composting, agriculture, HTML, homemade wood stoves, and Japanese sweets.
Dog #1
Dog #2
Sprawling…
Ben pulled out the old cycling atlas and helped us map out a route across western Kansas.
Emporia etc.
In Hillsboro, KS we stayed with Del, who teaches at the local college. As a former racer, bike mechanic, professional photographer, and international traveler, Del is a great source of info for anyone pedaling through Hillsboro. Here he is receiving the goods from his pastry dealer.
Hillsboro is home to a surprisingly good bakery.
Eyna dissecting a cinnamon bun…
The Hillsboro Bakery
Day old donuts: $0.30
Strategic Pastry Reserves
Hilarious.
In many parts of Kansas the road network is a simple 1-mile square grid. The grid system made navigating around a busy stretch of road west of Hillsboro pretty straightforward. Here’s Eyna on a 10-mile dirt road detour…
Nice, smooth, well-maintained gravel.
As we rode west, the environment became dryer and the endless fields of corn and soybeans gave way to sorghum.
Sorghum apparently requires less water than corn or soybeans.
It’s primarily used as animal feed, according to one local we spoke with.
Gravel and Sorghum
The Continental Travel Contact Tires (1.75 x 26″, wire bead) on my bike have over 3,000 miles on them. My rear tire is usually obscured by my rear fender, but when I laid my bike down to take photo on a lonely stretch of gravel road I noticed that it’s beginning to show some signs of wear. The rear tire is the drive tire (i.e. it propels the bike), so it wears more quickly than the front tire. After switching the front and rear tires, I’m confident that they’ll make it to the coast.
Roadside Scenery
Moo.
There wasn’t much wildlife in western Kansas. This was one of the highlights: a dead snake.
We fell into a routine once we hit the sparsely populated and mostly-flat western region. We’d wake up and ride…
And camp…
And ride…
And camp…
And ride…
And camp…
And ride…
And camp…
Aaaaaaaaand coffee…
And ride…
And camp….
And…thank you very much Kansas!
Statistics:
August 30: Lee’s Summit, MO to Lenexa, KS, 26.16 miles in 2 hours and 43 minutes
August 31: Lenexa, KS to Olathe, KS, 12.25 miles in 1 hour and 16 minutes
September 1: Olathe, KS to Ottawa, KS, 52.83 miles in 5 hours and 23 minutes
September 2: Ottawa, KS to Emporia, KS, 64.34 miles in 6 hours and 18 minutes
September 3: Emporia, KS to Hillsboro, KS, 61.02 miles in 5 hours and 46 minutes
September 4: Hillsboro, KS to Lyons, KS, 61.54 miles in 6 hours and 30 minutes
September 5: Lyons, KS to Rush Center, KS, 63.48 miles in 5 hours and 59 minutes
September 6: Rush Center, KS to Ness City, KS, 33.51 miles in 4 hours 1 minute
September 7: Ness City, KS to Scott City, KS, 57.08 miles in 6 hours and 17 minutes
September 8: Scott City, KS to Tribune, KS, 49.94 miles in 5 hours and 24 minutes
Total miles: 482.15 miles
Kanes On Bikes 